Both front cycle wings are now on. Rather than use bolts, I chose to use tiger seal to bond the wings to the brackets. The brackets themselves took quite a while to bend, making sure the wings didn't sit too high or low and I had to put in three 90° bends in order to get the wings central to the tire. Before bonding the wings on, I'd riveted on a square of aluminium to each bar to give a larger surface area to bond to, the surface of the aluminium roughed up to give a key. I'm pleased with the results and using Lee's industry standard "wiggle test", they feel stuck on pretty solid. I then went round the edge of each wing with U trim, bonding this on with some strong adhesive.
After the tiger seal had cured, I turned my attention to the front flexi hoses. Releasing the connection to the front brake pipes, the flexi on each side was then given a slight twist so that the flexi stays out of the way of the wishbones, tire, cycle wing bracket etc.. I noted that I'd need to restrict the steering rack movement as the flexis start to come into contact with wishbones at the extreme end of the lock. Once this was as good as it could be, the flexi hoses were then reconnected to the brake pipes. In order to restrict the rack movement, I put a jubilee clip round the rack under the gaiter but when turning the steering wheel to check whether the clamp would slide, the jubilee clamp actually snapped in half. After a rethink, I made some c collars from a 21mm I/D pipe, each approx 25mm long. These collars were clamped to the rack using a new jubilee clip and now when turning the wheel, the collars take the force of the movement and the jubilee clip just holds the collars in place. I can also feel a nice solid stop to the movement through the steering wheel - another job done.
Up until this point, the brake pedal seemed to have a lot of travel before any sort resistance is felt through the pedal. Reading up on this, I thought there may have been air trapped inside the brake switch or the master cylinder could be faulty. With some help, each corner was bled manually using the pedal and opening/closing each bleed nipple in turn. There were quite a few air bubbles in the system which came out during this process. The pedal itself needed minor adjustment on the stop as some of the travel was just slack before the rod makes contact inside the cylinder. The combined result is a much more positive feeling pedal.
Whilst working on the car, I noticed the flasher making a click noise ever few seconds. This only happens with the ignition on and all indicator and hazard switches turned off and when the click noise is heard, all bulb remain off. I'm going to try some contact cleaner in the indicator switch to see if this helps and also check the earth points. If this doesn't work I really hope I don't have to start stripping the loom out!
After the tiger seal had cured, I turned my attention to the front flexi hoses. Releasing the connection to the front brake pipes, the flexi on each side was then given a slight twist so that the flexi stays out of the way of the wishbones, tire, cycle wing bracket etc.. I noted that I'd need to restrict the steering rack movement as the flexis start to come into contact with wishbones at the extreme end of the lock. Once this was as good as it could be, the flexi hoses were then reconnected to the brake pipes. In order to restrict the rack movement, I put a jubilee clip round the rack under the gaiter but when turning the steering wheel to check whether the clamp would slide, the jubilee clamp actually snapped in half. After a rethink, I made some c collars from a 21mm I/D pipe, each approx 25mm long. These collars were clamped to the rack using a new jubilee clip and now when turning the wheel, the collars take the force of the movement and the jubilee clip just holds the collars in place. I can also feel a nice solid stop to the movement through the steering wheel - another job done.
Up until this point, the brake pedal seemed to have a lot of travel before any sort resistance is felt through the pedal. Reading up on this, I thought there may have been air trapped inside the brake switch or the master cylinder could be faulty. With some help, each corner was bled manually using the pedal and opening/closing each bleed nipple in turn. There were quite a few air bubbles in the system which came out during this process. The pedal itself needed minor adjustment on the stop as some of the travel was just slack before the rod makes contact inside the cylinder. The combined result is a much more positive feeling pedal.
Whilst working on the car, I noticed the flasher making a click noise ever few seconds. This only happens with the ignition on and all indicator and hazard switches turned off and when the click noise is heard, all bulb remain off. I'm going to try some contact cleaner in the indicator switch to see if this helps and also check the earth points. If this doesn't work I really hope I don't have to start stripping the loom out!
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